Selvedge formation in reinforced widened heel of stocking blanks



P 1 P.8CHOENSTER 7 2,357,852

SELVEDGE FORMATION IN REINFORCED WIDENED HEEL OF STOCKING BLANKS FiledJan. 29 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Inventor JeterJ cfz OCJLS C61" Jim EggSept? 1944- P. SCHOENSTE R ,8

SELVEDGE FORMATION IN REINFORCED WIDENED HEEL OF STOCKING BLANKS FiledJan. 29, 1941 '2 Sheets-Sheet 2' Patented Sept. 12,1944

snnvsnon roam-non m nnmroncan WIDENED HEEL OF STOCKING BLANKS PeterSchoenster, West New York, 1., asslgnor' to Alfred Hofmann, Inc., WestNew York, N. J.

Application January 29, 1941, Serial No. 376,404

l'claim.

The present invention generally relates to the manufacture offull-fashioned stockings and, more particularly", to a method of, andmechanism for, producing the same on a flat full-fashioned hosieryknitting machine.

The invention applies more particularly to stockings knitted in oneoperation on a single machine, as distinguished from those in which thestocking leg blanks are knitted on one machine and then transferred toanother machine for the addition of the foot portions, and refers morespecifically to a method and mechanism for widening out at the heelportion throughout a desirable number of courses to produce a stocking,the heel of which conforms to the correct form of the foot, withparticular referenceto the formation of a good selvedge at such widenedportions.

Various methods have heretofore been suggest:

ed to-produce such stockings. It has been an old practice to widen outat such heel portions of the stocking by transferring a certain numberof loops outwardly by means of the transfer or narrowing fingers but,aside from the unsightly widening line in the vicinity of the heel. thedurability of the stocking is weakened-by reason of the widening line.

Although some of these disadvantages have been overcome by the knownmethod of transferring out only groups of marginal loops which may bemade to disappear by seaming in, experience has proven that this methodproduces a bulky seaming edge and, of course, presents the usual hazardsconnected with transferring loops.

Another known method of widening without going to the process oftransferring consistsof reversing the carrier rack two needles .at atime during the coulierlng cycle which is also detriadditional yarncarriers for succeeding reinforce- I ments such as in the sole and toe.A further disadvantage is that this method results in poor selvedges onthe inside of the reinforcement.

These disadvantages have been obviated in the present invention by anovel combination of means and steps resulting in a method which maybebriefly summarized as follows: v

The first proposed provision consists of placing the reinforcingcarriers directly over jack sinkers which is made possible by a newauxiliary carrier rod stop.

In conjunction with this provision, a' novel change is made in thedividing sinkers, preferably only within the rangeof the widening outsection of the jack sinkers and dividing sinkers. The proposed changeconsists of reducing the normal clearance for the thread carrier tube onthe upper edge of the dividing sinkers and, at the same time,eliminating the normally provided tapered portion on said clearance edgeIt is, therefore, the primary object ofthis invention to provide a novelmethod and means to form the selvedge at the widened-out heel portion ofa stocking blank in order to enable the forming of the desirable heelroundness without the disadvantages of prior art widening methods thatis, without widening lines, and having.

an improved selvedge construction.

With these purposes in view, the invention pro- -vides the novelcombination consisting of changes Y the dividing sinkers. The inventionfurthermore discloses the necessary steps in the relative oper ation ofthe yarn carriers, jack .sinkers, and dividlng sinkers, and the needlesin their manipulation of the yarn to obtain the desired objectives.

An object of the invention is the economical reconstruction of anordinary sinker head to enable the same to eiliciently coact in theknitting of full-fashioned single unit hosiery blanks with widened heelfabrics.

Other objects attendant advantages and results accomplished by theseinnovations will be more fully explained in, and will become apparentfrom, the following description and the accompanying drawings in whichonly such parts of a complete multi-section flat knitting machine are,illustrated as will be necessary to intelligentat the outside of theselvedge during widening;

Figure 2 represents a corresponding view with the positions of saidcarriers at the outside of the selvedge after widening;

Figure 3 is a fragmentary view illustrating the main carrier rod and itsstopping mechanism;

Figure 4 shows the part of the head of a section of a multi-sectionknitting machine with the widened heel portion of a stocking blank;

Figure 5 shows a detail of the novel dividing sinker constructionindicating in broken lines the form of a conventional dividing sinker;

Figure 6 be fragmentary diagram showing the positions of the needles,yarn carrier tubes, as well as jack sinkers and dividing sinkers, afterthe yarn laying-of a widened course of reinforced heel fabric,illustrating the selvedge' formation thereof; b I

Figure '7 is a fragmentary diagrammatic view showing how the selvedgesare formed along the widened portionsof the heel fabric;

Figure 8 is a fragmentary view illustrating a modified form of carrierrod stopping mechanism. Referring first, for a more detailed descriptionof the cooperating elements, to Figure 1 of the drawings, thereinforcing carrier in is attached by means of a carrier plate l2 to thecarrier rod l4. As known, the carrier rods of a knitting machine havecarrier rod stop devices which abut to control the distances of travelof the yarn carriers for th laying of courses of yarn. It may bementioned that there are two reinforcing yarn carriers in each sectionof a machine at both ends to feed the yarn within the predeterminedreinforced areas.

In Figure l is shown one of such carrier rod stop devices [6 for thecarrier rod of the reinforcing yam carriers, and 'one carrier rodplunger is which will suilice for the descriptive purposes of theinvention.

This plunger i8 is commonly placed and held in its operative orinoperative positions by a plunger lock 20 which engages the plungereither during operation ina notch 22 for the normal plunger rest, or ina notch 24 when out of operation. Thus when the plunger lock is engagedwith the plunger in notch 22, the plunger end is lowered from itsinactive position in engagement with notch 24, and the plunger endprovides a normal abutting surface 26 for the carrier rod stop device16. As seen in Figure 2, this places the yarn carrier l0 aftercouliering in its travel in the direction of arrow X into a stopposition above a dividing sinker 2B. v

As a cooperative provision of this invention, it is proposed to providean auxiliary selvedge plunger rest notch 80 .into which the plunger lockmay engage. At the same time, it is proposed to cut out aportion of theplunger end at 32 to the extent of the distance of one needle, so thatwhen the plunger lock 20 is placed in notch 22, the carrier rod stopdevice abuts against the normal operating surface 28, but when saidplunger lock is engaged in notch 30, said carrier stop device abutsagainst the cut out portion 32 against carrier rod plungers on thecarrier rack 1 of the plunger I8, thereby placing the reinforcingreciprocating movements across the width of the stocking blank, whereasthe reinforcing carriers only follow a reciprocating movement at theirrespective ends of the section of a machine within the area ofreinforcing and lays the reinforcing yarn in these areas of the stockingblank.

In Figures 1 and 2, there are also indicated in the sinker head 40 thejack sinkers 34 which may be of the ordinary type, and the dividingsinkers 28 and 42, the dividing sinkers 42 being of the normal type,whereas those indicated at 28 are of a special construction hereinafterto be described.

As shown in Figure 4, it is proposed to provide the sinker head 40 'withalternating jack sinkers 34 and normal dividing sinkers 42, and specialdividing sinkers 28 in such a manner that the special dividing sinkers28 are arranged only within the range of the widened portions A of thereinforced area B of a stocking blank C, all other dividing sinkersbeing of the normal type. The primary purpose or advantage of arrangingthe special dividing sinkers only within the range of the widenedportions A is. that by such an arrangement it becomes necessary to varythe usual and standard sinker head only in the relativelyrestrictedportions thereof intended to knit such widened portions.

These special dividing sinkers 28 consist, as known, of a thin steelplate having a projecting tail 44, a butt 46, and a nose end 48 forminga yarn sinking throat 50. The upper edge 52 is recessed at 54, butvaries'in the extent of recess and shape in a manner and for the purposehereinafter described from the commonly used form of' dividing sinker,which is indicated in Figure .5 in broken lines in two types in use.

clearance, still allowing sufllcient clearance for any thread carriertube such as the main carrier tubes which, during the course ofknitting, come to be positioned above these dividers.

In conjunction with positioning the reinforcing yarn guides above thejack sinker, said carrier is, of course, adjusted so that sufllcientclearance between yarn guide and jack sinker is provided.

It will be noted from Figure 6 that, in the course of widening, a loopformed .rom the main yarn on the two added needles is overlapped by aloop formed on the innermost of the added needles and the next adjacentneedle inward of the fabric edge with the result that the interveningsinker wale loop of the immediately adjacent course is tied into thefabric and,.accordingly, prevented from running. This is accomplished bylaying the yarn in the manner shown in Figure 7 for the formation of awidened course.

As the invention has been hereinabove described in all necessary detailsto make its purposes and results clear to one skilled in the art.

' mechanism for the reinforcing carrier.

t will therefore suflice to now summarize briefly t"e a'irlicaticnthereof in the knitting of the w-dened portion of the heel of astocking, by reiterating the various steps required in operation,

although these steps have already either been indicated, or areconclusive from the foregoing specification.

After the leg blank has been completed to the point that the heelreinforced portion is to be knitted, the auxiliary yarn carriers for thereinis more practical to already place the carrier rodplunger I8 incontact with the so-called selvedge plunger notch 30, in order to avoidone setting operation which would be required if, during the straightreinforcing portion, the carrierv rod plunger would be placed in thenormal operative position. engaged in notch 22, and when the widening isstarted, would be changed to engagement with notch 38. With the plungerin contact with notch 30, the carrier rod stop device l6 would come toabutment with the cut out portion 32 of the plunger 18, thus placing thereinforcing carrier In, as shown in Figures 1 and 6, over a jack sinker.With the carrier rack mechanism (not one needle distance, placed asshown in front of the abutting surface of a stop 32a. This plate isattached to a plunger-like element |8a having a normal operating notch22a and an auxiliary shown) in operation and increasing the stroke o'ftheyarn carriers by two needles after any predetermined number ofcourses, the widening takes place during which phase the main carriersmaintain a stop distance from the reinforcing carriers of the spacebetween a jack sinker and a dividing sinker. 1

As hereinbefore described, the special dividing sinkers 28 inserted inthe sinker head within the widening range will insure that thereinforcing yarn is caught by the penultimate knitting needle.Experience in the embodiment of this invention has proven that thethread is either caught by said needle in the couliering or, if missedthen, is caught during the rising of the needle in the sinker throat.

After the widening has been completed, the knitting proceedsin a knownmanner in which the widening is followed by narrowings to obtain thedesired rounded formation of the heel.

When knitting the widened out portions of the heel fabrics of thesingle'unit stocking, it is preferable that the yarn carriers l0 and 36be spaced one-needle distance apart so as to come to rest over a sinkerand an adjacent special divider as shown in Figure l, but when knittingother reine forced portions of the blank, it is preferably to space thecarriers l0 and 36 a two-needle distance apart so as to com to rest overtwo adjacent dividers, as shown in Figure 2.

Figure 8'shows a modified form of the arresting In the normal stopposition in which the reinforcing come to a stop over a dividing sinker,the modified carrier arresting mechanism is adjusted to include a thinplate 26a of a thickness equal to a positioning notch see either ofwhich can be adjusted for engagement with a locking latch 20a heldagainst said notch by spring means 2la. The plunger-like element isslidably supported for vertical movement in a handle 23a. This plungermay be lifted out of position with the plate 26a so that when the plateis oil" the abutting surface of the stop 32a, the carrier rod Maextendsits outward movement for an additional distance ofv one needle, thusplacing the reinforcing carrier la in a stop position over a jack sinkerinstead of a dividing sinker as, and for the purpose, hereinbeforestated. a

In order to practice the method herein dis-' closed to manufacturestockings made of yarn with wiry characteristics, such as nylon, hightwist, etc., it has been found advantageous to idle through narrowingmotion after every widening out operation whereby to shorten theunusually large selvedge loops caused by the said wiry na ture of suchyarns.

It is to be understood that it is within the scope of the invention towiden out any desired portion 'of the leg and foot fabrics of thestocking in accordance with the method herein disclosed. In the knittingof the stocking starting with the toe, not only the heel but also theleg portion may be widened out at desirable places by one needlewidening performed by means of the main thread carriers. To do this, itwould be required to permit the main yarn carrier to stop altematinglyover a divider and then over the adjoining jack sinker.

It is also to be understood that the foregoing description of certainpossible embodiments of this invention is not to be considered as alimitation to any particular modification of the invention, as othermodifications are conceivable within the spirit and scope of thepurposed innovations.

What is claimed is: An attachment for a full-fashioned knitting machinefor knitting a single unit stocking and adding widened portions to theheel fabrics thereof, comprising: a bank of needles; a sinker headoperatively associated with said needles and consisting of analternating arrangement of sinkers and dividers, the sinkers all beingof the ordinary typeand the same height, and the majority of thedividers being of the ordinary type and of a height less than the heightof the sinkers, the remainder of the dividers being of a special .typeand located only in the sinker head in the range of knitting of thewidened portions of the heel fabrics, and of a height higher than thesaid ordinary type dividers but not higher than the sinkers; a pair ofcarrier rods; a yarn carrier connected to each rod and operativelyassociated carrier. lfla. carried by the carrier'rod Ila is to with saidsinkers and dividers; and and stop means operatively associated withsaid rods and fabrics.

l PETER SCHOENSTER.

